When I was about twenty-two, I had a newborn son and a girl who had a father who was living in Tampa Bay. He wanted to see his grandson and a vacation sounded nice. We got some urban legend and medical mumbo-jumbo that made us leary of flying down there with an infant out of concern for his eardrums. We took the City of New Orleans train via Amtrak and a bus to Tampa. One thing I can recommend for this mode of transportation is that you will get to see every bad neighborhood in America on a north/south trajectory because of it's proximity to the tracks and even better an amazing, moving graffiti show. My personal favorite was "Fuck a fish tank". I'm still not sure what it meant but I've got photos somewhere.
I had never met the old man. When I met him, he was incredibly engaging. Intelligent, interesting, had a million stories that would have you hanging off the edge of your seat. I had been told that he and my baby mama's mother had broken up because he was an abusive sadist, but damn was that guy cool and I sort of had it pushed to the back of my mind. He was a Vietnam vet and my dad was a Marine crew chief on a Huey and prone to spazing out so I sort of had a pass for him already built in.
The last night we were there (it wasn't supposed to be) I heard fighting and then silence, then I heard gasping. I'm thinking fucking but it didn't sound quite right. I said "what was that?" and what turned out to be my ex-wife said "He was choking her, what do you think it was?". Oh. Well, it was time to get the hell out of Dodge. She was right as confirmed by later phone conversations. One way or another I figured it was time to go home.
So we get back to New Orleans to take the train back to Chicago. There is this guy there that wants to know if I want to buy pot. I smoked back then and had just bought a piece in Ybor City and it sounded good. I said "Sure, can you sell me an eighth?". He responded "You want an eight-ball? I can get an eight-ball!!!". I obviously should have ended the conversation there but I didn't. Supposedly the weed was in his taxi and we were going to do the deal there. We got in the back seat and as soon as I stepped in a crack head materialized in the driver's seat and we were moving. I was informed that the pot wasn't actually in the car but somewhere else. If you know New Orleans at all you understand exactly how quickly you will disappear into the ghetto if you travel east from the train station.
Within a matter of seconds I was in the thick of a city that I thought I knew. No friendly guy offering you a forty-ounce margarita or daquiri from curbside on the corner. Suddenly it was incredibly desperate hordes of humanity trying to sell you crack or ass. You either drive through them or they are going to bust into the car to pitch one or the other.
When you look out the side window you can see the shitty housing. The houses have no insulation and there are cracks in the slat boards wide enough that it makes a sort of kaleidoscope where you can see about a tenth of what is going on in the house. I've been to Negril, Jamaica and it wasn't quite as desperate as ghetto New Orleans.
To wind down the story, I gave up a twenty to buy pot. When the guy came back I was unsuprised to learn that he had been unable to procure such a substance there, but had picked up some freebase and we had to go somewhere else. The guy started smoking out of broken glass pipe and he said "hold this for me". Human beings being dumb things who are likey to respond the same way to a grenade offered to them, I did stick out my hand and was offered a couple lumps of crack and a bunch of blood from where the guy had been high, cut himself to hell and didn't notice. I just pretented to be sort of dumb and told him I had a train to catch and if he could drop me off I'd be grateful and if he got back with the pot it would be a bonus. He pretended to believe in the whole imaginary scenario and I got back and counted myself lucky I'd got back.
The point of the story is what exactly should be done in New Orleans? I seriously have no idea. I'm extremely hostile to the city leadership which apparently believes in some fantasy world where New Orleans could be some new Disney World or at least a southern Atlantic City. The thing is Atlantic City would be an improvement on what was there. What was there was a shithole people were too poor to escape from when it started to drown them. Is there a serious policy solution out there that seriously questions what was there and what could be there?